The last summer recipe: gelo di cantalupo, Sicilian melon pudding
The first time I tried gelo di mellone I was in London, at the Oxford Food Symposium, at the gala dinner prepared by Fabrizia Tasca Lanza. The theme of the dinner was the Festive foods of Sicily. Closing that sumptuous banquet was a simple and equally surprising gelo di mellone.
Speaking of geli, surely the best known is gelo di mellone. But don’t be misled by its name: mellone, in this case, is watermelon (anguria in Italian), and gelo – meaning bitter cold – is a very traditional Sicilian pudding, where the juice of the watermelon (but also of blood oranges, lemons, or melon) is thickened with corn starch.
Gelo puddings are very simple desserts, with a slightly retro flavour, easy to make, and modern in their approach. A very short list of ingredients means that they are fresh, gluten-free, and vegan desserts, thus extremely inclusive and suitable for these last summer evenings.
For today’s dessert, I chose a sweet, juicy melon and made gelo di cantalupo, which is the Sicilian dialect term for melon.
If you have a juicer, the preparation of a gelo is really straightforward: once I extracted the juice, I added a few tablespoons of elderflower syrup to enhance the aromatic notes of the melon.
When the gelo was ready, I poured it into the prettiest glasses I had. A few raspberries and a handful of grapes were enough to decorate each pudding with simplicity.
Light and fruity, they and every meal with a delicate, sweet note.
Gelo di melone, Sicilian melon pudding
Recipe in collaboration with Consorzio Melone Mantovano PGI
Here’s the second recipe developed for Consorzio Melone Mantovano PGI, a consortium that gathers farmers in the province of Mantua and in the neighbouring provinces of Cremona, Modena, Bologna, and Ferrara, a land devoted to melon farming for centuries.
There are indeed numerous historical accounts that confirm the centrality of melon farming in the area: from the presence in the 16th century of an oratory dedicated to Santa Maria del Melone, in the very central Via Cavour in Mantua, to the melons used together with other local products to decorate the vault of the Sala Consigliare of the Consortium of Participants of San Giovanni in Persiceto, painted by Angelo Lamma in 1833.
As for panzanella, I chose the smooth-skinned melon to make the Sicilian melon pudding, as it is intensely aromatic and perfectly married to the elderflower syrup’s flowery notes.
Gelo di melone, Sicilian melon pudding
Ingredients
- 1 melon
- 40 g sugar
- 35 g corn starch
- 2 tablespoons elderflower syrup
- a few fresh raspberries
- a few grapes
Instructions
- Cut the melon into wedges, remove the seeds, and then purée it in a blender. Pass it through a sieve placed over a bowl to eliminate the pulp. If you have a juicer, cut the melon into chunks and juice it, then pass the juice through a sieve into a bowl. You should get about 2 cups/500 ml of melon juice. Should you have any leftovers, save the juice for another use, or drink it cold with a squeeze of lime.1 melon
- Add the sugar and the cornstarch to a saucepan. Dilute them with ½ cup of melon juice. Add the rest of the melon juice and the elderflower syrup. Bring it to a simmer on medium-low flame, stirring continuously. When you spot the first bubbles, cook for one more minute, then remove from the heat.40 g sugar, 35 g corn starch, 2 tablespoons elderflower syrup
- Pour the thickened melon juice into 4 ½-cup pudding moulds, or glasses, smooth the surface, and refrigerate overnight.
- Just before serving the gelo di melone, decorate each pudding with raspberries and grapes. The puddings can be kept in the fridge for up to two days.a few fresh raspberries, a few grapes
An end-of-summer menu
I was thinking about a simple menu made up of many small plates, designed to be shared with friends. There are the scents of late summer, when the harvest is most bountiful, when tomatoes, eggplants, and zucchini happily coexist on the market stalls with the first apples, figs, and grapes. Serve these dishes along with our Sicilian melon pudding.
- Prosciutto and melon panzanella. The sweet and salty flavours of prosciutto and melon mingle with the vinegary, aromatic notes of panzanella, creating a unique summer dish.
- Pork tenderloin medallions with apples and onions. You can prepare the pork tenderloin medallions wrapped in lardo and cook them with apples and onions in no time. They will remain juicy, perfectly paired with caramelised apples and onions.
- Fried green tomatoes with grapes. There are only five ingredients – green tomatoes, grapes, basil, garlic and chilli – yet each one is essential. The pan-fried green tomatoes are meaty and fresh, the grapes add a delicate sweet note, the garlic and basil give an aromatic twist, and the chilli warms it up.
- Roasted peppers and a cheese toastie. In my frenzy to add roasted peppers to every possible food, I prepared a cheese toastie with sourdough bread, milky mozzarella and a few strips of roasted tomatoes. I can not think of a better way to say goodbye to summer.
Do you think a regular netted skin cantaloupe would work for this recipe.? I cannot find a smooth skinned that is this color inside, in the part of Texas I live in.. Not sure if smooth skinned is more European or not. I can find seeds if I want to try to grow my own. The only smooth skinned melon available is a Honeydew, and it’s light green inside and doesn’t have much of a flavor. Thank you for your time.
Sure, a regular netted skin cantaloupe would work perfectly. You can add also a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavours1
This is a real throwback to my youth. Nonna, a true and full blooded Sicilian, used to make things like this for Sunday dinners. A long time has passed butit still stays in my memory. Maybe I’ll give it a try. Thank you!
What a memory! I find geli are the perfect end of a meal dessert, so light and refreshing. let me know if you try it!
Beautiful recipe! I fancied it up with a heavy hand of chili powder and some salt. Ended up akin to a margarita and was a real crowd pleaser
that’s brilliant Jacob! how smart!
Any substitutions for elderflower syrup?
Hi Dolores, it can be skipped altogether, it just add a delicate flowery taste, or substituted with rose syrup.